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Free Standing Carport Plans
This free standing carport plan produces a carport 20 x 10.
Free standing carports have been a major appeal nowadays. One problem though, free standing carports cost a fortune. This free standing carport plan will show you how to make your own free standing flat roof carport. The materials to be used are quite cheap. And you could probably finish this in two days, depending on your speed. So save those bucks. Check on the highlighted materials. They don't cost as much as the carports sold over the internet.
This carport plan produces a structure 20ft long and 10ft wide. The design is pretty basic since this carport plan only serves to show casual readers with interest in carports how to make own. Before engaging into this activity, check with your Local Authority to see if any permit or consent is required.
Summarizing the materials needed
Posts 4x4
Beams 2x8
End rafters 2x8
Rafters 2x6
Noggings 2x6
Galvanized bolts
Joist Hangers
Galvanized Angle Bracket
The roof slope should be at least 2". In this project the slope is 4". If using a clear PVC roof, then a steeper slope is advisable, as a steeper fall means faster water run-off, and therefore a cleaner roof.
Mark out the carport (20ft x 10ft rectangle) and erect timber profiles out from each corner and also out from the middle to take in the two center posts. Set the timber profiles back at least 2'-O" from the building line (carport perimeter) to allow room for hole digging etc. Attach stringline to indicate the center of the six posts 4" in from the side edges and 13" in from the front and back edges.
Dig holes 1"square 2" deep. Place 4" of concrete into the bottom of every hole. Now put the posts in the holes and check that the post is plumb (vertical) and almost, but not quite, touching the stringline.
Fill the hole with concrete to within 2" of the finished ground level. Check again that the post is plumb and not quite touching the stringline. Because of the depth of the hole, the concrete will support the post without the need for bracing. Continue until all posts are concreted in.
Mark the rear posts a minimum of 7'-8" above the slab, or finished ground level. Ensure the height marks on both rear posts are level. Use a spirit-level on a straight edge to achieve this or the water level method. Mark the front two posts 4" higher than the rear posts. Fix a stringline between the front and back posts to mark the height of the middle posts. Cut the tops of the posts off at these marks.
Cut the two beams 20ft long with 45degree angle cuts each end and clamp in place to the posts so that the tops of the beams are flush with the tops of the posts and protrude past both the front and rear posts by 1'-0". Drill and bolt the beams to the posts with 1/2" Galvanized bolts, two bolts at each at each meeting.
Cut the two end rafters 10ft long with 45degree angle cuts each end and fix in place to the beams with 3" jolthead Galvanized nails and then with Galvanized angle brackets, each bracket fixed with four 1/2" Galvanized bolts, two through the beam and two through the rafter.
Cut the six intermediate rafters 9'-8" long and fix in place to the beams with Galvanized metal joist hangers. Space the rafters at 3'-0" center.
Finish off with a longitudinal row of noggings down the middle and in between the rafters.
If the posts are concreted into the ground, and the posts are bolted to the beams with two bolts at each meeting, then no further bracing should be required. If, however, the posts are not in-ground, but supported by Galvanized post brackets, then additional bracing is required. One such scenario is to fix upper post diagonal bracing two to each post, each about 3'-0" long (more or less), and fixed to the post with nailplates and fixed to the beam/rafter with bolts. You may now attach your choice of roof.
This free carport plan is taken from:
buildeazy.com/carport.html
Free Standing Carport Plans
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